On several occasions, I've been on my way to Tomoe when I've been sidetracked by the delicious scent of garlic wafting from Lupa next door. Tonight was one of those nights; the heavenly aroma pulled me in and deposited me firmly at Lupa's bar.
Lupa is a wonderful place for a light summer dinner; one can easily make a varied and filling meal from the antipasti e salume. This portion of the menu is divided into vegetable, fish, Italian cold cuts and salad categories. I'm especially fond of the octopus and garbanzo salad. Tonight, as I decided between the black kale and fried garlic or the lightly vinegared sea bass scabece with arugula (I chose the latter), I was briefly distracted by a plate of paper-thin slices of prosciutto di parma that was on its way to a nearby table.
Although I could have happily continued with more antipasti, I remembered how much I loved the bavette cacio e pepe. This perfect pasta dish is a bowl of linguini-like pasta, made pungent with melted sheep's-milk cheese and spicy with generously sprinkled black pepper. I don't think I could ever tire of it.
The peppery experience was unexpectedly prolonged with my dessert order: a flower of apricot-petaled panna cotta highlighted with pink peppercorns. The heat of the spice was a nice counterpart to the cool, creamy custard.
As I exited Lupa, I saw the usual long line of people waiting to eat at Tomoe. I patted my full stomach with a satisfied smile.
Lupa: 170 Thompson St., (212) 982-5089.
Friday, July 16, 2004
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